UK rock climbing grades are famously complex because they prioritize information over simple difficulty. Unlike most systems that give you one number for “how hard it is,” the British “Trad” system gives you two: one for how hard the moves are, and one for how likely you are to get hurt.
Here is the breakdown of the UK grading systems.
1. Traditional (Trad) Grades
This is the unique UK system used for routes where you place your own gear (cams, nuts) for protection. It consists of two parts: the Adjectival Grade and the Technical Grade.
Part A: The Adjectival Grade (The “Vibe”)
This measures the overall feel of the route. It factors in:
- Physical exertion (how pumped you get).
- Danger (how good the gear is).
- Seriousness (runouts, rock quality).
The Scale:
- M / D / VD / HVD: Moderate, Difficult, Very Difficult, Hard Very Difficult (Beginner/easy territory).
- S / HS: Severe, Hard Severe (The classic “entry-level” for competent climbers).
- VS / HVS: Very Severe, Hard Very Severe (The benchmark for intermediate climbers).
- E-Grades (E1, E2, E3…): “Extreme.” This is an open-ended scale for expert climbing. E1 is the entry into high-performance trad.
Part B: The Technical Grade (The “Move”)
This measures only the hardest single move on the route (the crux). It ignores how tired or scared you are; it just asks, “How hard is it to pull this one move?”
The Scale:
- 4a, 4b, 4c: Juggy, good holds, requires basic balance.
- 5a, 5b, 5c: Smaller holds, requires technique and finger strength.
- 6a, 6b, 6c: Very technical, often powerful or extremely delicate.
- 7a, 7b…: Elite difficulty.
Crucial Warning: Do not confuse UK Technical grades with French Sport grades. UK 6a is much harder than French 6a.
- French 6a = ~5.10a (Intermediate)
- UK Tech 6a = ~V3/V4 Boulder move (Hard)
2. How to Read the Two Together
The magic of the UK system happens when you combine them. The relationship between the “Adjective” and the “Number” tells you what kind of route it is.
Example: The “Standard” pairing For a balanced route with decent gear and steady climbing, the grades usually pair up like this:
Scenario A: The Grade is “High Adjective / Low Tech” (e.g., HVS 4c)
- Translation: “The moves are easy (4c), but the grade is high (HVS).”
- Meaning: This route is either bold (dangerous runouts with no gear) or extremely sustained (easy moves that never end).
- Vibe: Scary but technically easy.
Scenario B: The Grade is “Low Adjective / High Tech” (e.g., VS 5a)
- Translation: “The move is hard (5a), but the overall grade is low (VS).”
- Meaning: The crux is difficult, but it is safe. You probably have a piece of gear right by your face while you do the hard move.
- Vibe: A “one-move wonder.” Safe but pumpy.
3. Sport & Bouldering Grades
If you are climbing indoors or on bolted rock in the UK, the system changes.
- Sport Climbing: The UK uses the French Numerical System (e.g., 6a, 6a+, 6b). This is a single grade for the overall difficulty of the route.
- Bouldering: The UK uses a mix of the V-Scale (V3, V4) and the Font Scale (6A, 6B). Note that Font grades use capital letters to distinguish them from sport grades.
We run many coaching and instructional courses that will help you understand the above, and work on pushing your grade
