Description
Trad (traditional) climbing is where the first climber (the ‘lead’) places their own protection on their way up the rock face and their partner (the ‘second’) removes the protection while they are ‘seconding’ the route – that is, following the lead to the top. The lead belays the second from above, having built their own belay using gear to ensure both are safe in the event of a fall.
Protection placement, how to safely clip, the essentials of trad climbing
Self-placed protection:
Unlike sport climbing, which uses pre-placed bolts, trad climbers insert their own protection pieces into the rock, such as cams and nuts, and then clip the rope to them.
Gear removal:
The second climber, or “follower,” removes all the gear placed by the leader as they ascend the route.
Route finding and judgment:
Trad climbers must read the rock, identify suitable placements, and make quick decisions on the best gear to use in a given spot, making the experience more cerebral.
Gear management:
Climbers carry a “rack” of gear, including cams, nuts, quickdraws, and other equipment, which can be heavy and complicated.
Increased risk:
Because protection is placed by the climber, trad climbing has inherent risks that require a higher level of skill and judgment compared to sport climbing.
Adventure and exploration:
Trad climbing often leads to climbing in more remote and wild locations, providing a sense of adventure beyond just the technical difficulty of the climb.
A different experience:
The focus shifts from following a pre-set path to actively engaging with the rock and managing risk. The climbing experience can be more thoughtful and deliberate.
Importance of mentorship:
Because of the increased risk, it is highly recommended to learn from experienced climbers and instructors, rather than trying to learn entirely from books or online resources.