www.everythingawesome.co.uk

The road to Awesomeness

Category Climbing

The Best Life

The best life

Living the best life.

My life, so many things are unimportant, age, gender, religion, colour, income, social standing. None of these make any difference at all.


A bold statement!

Standing at the top of a drop in, Mountain bike, Snowboard, Ski,   Pushing the tail of a skateboard over the coping,  ready to drop into that bowl, Rolling into some downhill MTB, Hanging off a rope, with rock in front of me, and birds behind.

I live a world where  as a 60-year-old man it’s cool for me to chat to a 15-year-old boy if he is doing something Uber fucking cool and that 15-year-old boy at the same time will chat away to me because he hopes I’m still doing this shit when he is my age.
There are no obstacles other than self imposed ones.  Free your mind from those, make friends because they have shared interests and the world will just feel better.

Trad anchor angles

Trad anchor angles

The Alarming Physics of Trad Anchor Angles: Why Expert Guidance Matters

Traditional climbing (“trad”) presents a unique set of challenges, and understanding the physics behind your anchor systems is paramount. It’s a sobering thought that a 100kg climber can, under certain conditions, exert a staggering 574kg of force on their gear placements. This dramatic load multiplication occurs as the included angle between the anchor points widens, reaching this alarming figure at an angle of 170 degrees.

This phenomenon underscores why seasoned climbers and instructional bodies consistently advise never exceeding a 90-degree angle in your anchor setup. Beyond 90 degrees, the forces on each piece of gear begin to increase exponentially. At 120 degrees, each anchor point bears the entirety of the load, effectively doubling the stress. As the angle approaches 180 degrees (a nearly flat line), the forces skyrocket towards infinity, making even the most bomber placements vulnerable.

When these immense forces come into play, several critical questions arise. Firstly, consider the inherent strength of your protection. Can your cams, nuts, or slings individually withstand loads approaching or exceeding 5 kilonewtons (approximately 500kg)? Many pieces of gear, while strong, have limitations, especially smaller units or those placed in less-than-ideal rock.

Secondly, and crucially, assess the rock quality itself. Even if your gear is rated to hold significant forces, will the rock around it? High loads can cause a seemingly solid rock feature to fracture, split, or even dislodge entirely, leading to catastrophic anchor failure. This is a particular concern in certain rock types or in areas with hidden weaknesses.

Given these complex and potentially severe consequences, seeking professional guidance is a prudent step for any aspiring or progressing trad climber. Before venturing into situations that could unknowingly test the limits of your gear and judgment, consider investing in coaching from a qualified instructor. Instructors holding the Rock Climbing Development Instructor (RCDI) qualification, for example, have undergone rigorous training and assessment. They possess the deep knowledge and practical experience to teach you not only the “how” but, more importantly, the “why” behind safe and efficient trad climbing practices. These suitably experienced and qualified professionals can help you develop a nuanced understanding of anchor mechanics, gear placement, and risk assessment, ensuring you’re building a foundation of safety for all your future climbs. Their expertise is your best safeguard against the hidden forces at play.

Not a 9 to 5

9 to 5

Definitely not a 9 to 5.
Happiness can be as simple as a grouse butt to sit in and watch absolutely nothing go by.

For a whole range of outdoor activities, paddle sports, rock climbing, hiking, archery, mountain biking, skiing, snowboarding navigation skills.

We can help give you an exciting and interesting day out.

If you’re 9:00 to 5:00 is getting you down on the fluorescent strip lights in your ceiling, feel a bit depressing. Get in touch. The ceiling in my office is astounding. Sometimes it’s blue, sometimes it’s grey, sometimes it’s hot, and sometime is wet but it always lifts the heart.

#everythingawesome
#mtb#climbing#hiking#peakdistrict

Kolb’s Learning Cycle

Kolb's Learning Cycle

It’s been a week of reflection here at Everything Awesome, Kolb’s Learning Cycle has been firmly in our minds, from yesterday trying few freestyle moves on the SUP, to a morning today on Stanage Edge trad climbing, and discovering the impact not having the right gear on my belt had.|

If you want to discover the learning cycle, without the boring explanations, book onto any of our activities. They are AWESOME.

Green Spider

Green Spider

On a 3 day road trip lesley and i visited Green Spider Climbing in Hereford.

An interesting centre, although i felt a tendancy for lazy setting. Far easier to grade a route harder by simply making it more stretchy than it is to make it challenging in other ways. As a short bloke i notice this stuff more than most

Although on a good day i could crush their 6b+ routes!.

If your looking for climbing instruction or coaching, get in touch.


Dirty Old Town

The biting wind whipped across the exposed face of the quarry, a grim, grey scar carved into the landscape just outside Huddersfield, a town that, let’s be honest, wore its industrial grit like a badge of honour. Today, however, the grit was more than just a backdrop; it was a tangible representation of my own monumental blunder.

I’d arrived, eager to get some climbing in, the familiar thrill of the rock face beckoning. But as I rummaged through my rope bag, a cold dread began to creep in. The contents revealed a stark and unsettling truth: 7.5 meters of static rope, 25 meters of static rope, and absolutely no dynamic rope.

A wave of frustration washed over me. Static rope, in climbing terms, is the equivalent of trying to drive a nail with a feather duster. Stiff, unyielding, and utterly devoid of the crucial elasticity that makes climbing safe and enjoyable. Belaying with it was a nightmare waiting to happen, a recipe for jerky, uncomfortable ascents and descents. And, of course, the most terrifying prospect: the complete absence of stretch. A fall, a “whip,” as climbers call it, would be a jarring, bone-shattering event, with the force transferred directly to my body.

The realization hit me like a physical blow. Complacency, that insidious enemy of the experienced, had struck again. In the rush of loading the van, distracted by some trivial matter, I’d neglected the most fundamental of checks. The consequences were now staring me in the face, a stark reminder that even the most seasoned climbers are vulnerable to simple errors.

The quarry, with its rough, unforgiving rock, seemed to mock my predicament. The wind howled, carrying the echoes of my frustration across the desolate landscape. It was a harsh, unforgiving lesson, delivered in the most practical and immediate way possible.

I spent the rest of the day in a state of frustrated contemplation. The climbing gear remained untouched, a silent testament to my folly. Instead, I focused on the task of internalizing the lesson. The importance of meticulous preparation, of double and triple-checking equipment, was driven home with brutal clarity.

The experience was more than just an inconvenience; it was a wake-up call. Climbing, like any high-risk activity, demands unwavering attention to detail. Complacency is a luxury that can have devastating consequences. The price of this lesson was a wasted day, a bruised ego, and a healthy dose of self-recrimination. But it was a price worth paying.

Back in my storage, the ropes now hang neatly on the shelf, a visual reminder of my error. But alongside them, a new addition: a meticulously crafted tick list. Every item, every piece of equipment, every crucial step, is now documented and checked. The list is a tangible symbol of my commitment to vigilance, a promise to myself that I will never again allow complacency to compromise my safety or the safety of others.

The dirty old quarry in Huddersfield, with its unforgiving rock and howling winds, had delivered a harsh but invaluable lesson. And in the world of climbing, lessons learned the hard way are the ones that stick.

Rigging for Adaptive Climbing

We can help with adaptive climbing, Wheelchair users, missing limbs etc. the setup allows for a 2 to 1 pulley system to be included in the standard climbing setup, a competent person can simply pull, and the climber can he hoisted up the wall in a safe and controlled manner.

Adaptive climbing
  • A          Backup.
  • B          3 point rigging plate
    • C          Load point with Alpine Butterfly     
  • D          Load point with Petzl Pulley
  • E          Alpine Butterfly
  • F          To the climber’s belay loop.
  • G         To belayer

Images describing the rigging setup for assisting a climber with limited strength, or injuries that limit the use of arms/legs.

Rockover

Rockover

A climber uses a rockover  to efficiently shift their center of gravity by placing a foot high up on a hold and then rocking their weight over onto that foot, allowing them to reach higher on the wall, improve balance, and access new handholds by essentially moving sideways before moving upwards; it’s a key technique for navigating low-angled, spaced-out holds on a climbing surface. 

Key points about rockovers:

  • Access to new holds:By bringing one foot high up and rocking over, a climber can reach holds that might be difficult to access directly with a traditional upward step. 
  • Improved body positioning:A rockover can help a climber get their body into a more balanced and stable position on the wall. 
  • Efficient movement on low-angled terrain:When climbing on a slab (low-angled rock), rockovers are often necessary to smoothly transition between holds. 
  • Dynamic movement:Rockovers can be done dynamically, using momentum to swing the body weight over the high foot. 

Credit to the photo goes to Jack

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