Everything Awesome

A professional beginner is someone who has turned the act of starting over into an elite, highly marketable skill.

I seem to have had this description for most of my adult life, and somehow, have paid my bills and lived a great life.

While most professionals climb a career ladder by narrowing their focus, a professional beginner climbs by widening their scope. They don’t claim to be a veteran expert in any single domain; instead, their expertise lies in the speed at which they can conquer a learning curve.

They are intellectual chameleons, drop-in problem solvers, and professional translators. Here is what defines them:

1. The Core Mindset: High Confidence, Low Ego

The most distinct trait of a professional beginner is a unique psychological balance:

• Zero Ego: They are completely unphased by walking into a room and saying, “I don’t know what that acronym means, please explain it to me.” They don’t waste cognitive energy pretending to know things they don’t.
• Radical Confidence: While they have low ego about their current knowledge, they have sky-high confidence in their ability to learn. They operate on a fundamental belief: If another human being figured this out, I can figure it out too.

2. The Skillset of Rapid Acquisition

A professional beginner doesn’t learn like an academic; they learn like an engineer. They possess a meta-skill: learning how to learn.

• Deconstruction: They can look at a complex system (a new coding language, a supply chain bottleneck, a financial model) and instantly break it down into its core components.
• The 20% Filter: They instinctively find the 20% of vocabulary and concepts that drive 80% of the daily operations in a given field.
• Analogy Matching: Because they have dabbled in so many industries, they learn by cross-referencing. When learning a new marketing framework, they might think, “Oh, this is just like the feedback loops I learned about in mechanical engineering.”

3. The Professional Value: The “OODA Loop” Expert

In the corporate world, the professional beginner is an incredible asset, particularly in volatile or fast-moving industries. They excel at what military strategist John Boyd called the OODA Loop (Observe, Orient, Decide, Act).

[Traditional Expert] ───> Relies on historical precedents and "how we've always done it."
                          Can freeze when a totally unprecedented problem occurs.

[Professional Beginner] ─> Relies on first principles and rapid adaptation.
                          Thrives in chaos because they expect to start from scratch.

They are the ultimate “firefighters.” When a company faces a weird, multi-departmental crisis that doesn’t fit neatly into HR, Legal, or Engineering, they drop the professional beginner into the center of it.

4. The Trap to Avoid

The danger of being a professional beginner is becoming a “permanent amateur.” To avoid this, a true professional beginner ensures that while their subject matter changes, their execution standards remain elite. They might be a beginner at the specific technical requirements of a new project, but they are a seasoned master at project management, communication, stakeholder alignment, and critical thinking.

In short: A traditional expert is paid for what they already know. A professional beginner is paid for how fast they can figure out what nobody knows yet.

UK knife laws are strict, and navigating them basically comes down to understanding the difference between what you can carry anywhere, anytime versus what requires a “good reason.”

While I appreciate this might be quite a contentious post, I believe all of us working in the outdoor industries should be carrying a small, legally acceptable pen knife.

I have carried a small knife for most of my adult life. My current EDC (Everyday Carry) is the Spyderco Squeak

Here is exactly how the law breaks down.

1. What You Can Carry Anywhere (Everyday Carry)

You are legally allowed to carry a pocket knife in a public place without needing a specific reason, but only if it meets two strict criteria simultaneously:

• It must be non-locking: The blade must fold freely at all times without any mechanical lock, button, spring, or catch holding it open (like a classic Swiss Army knife).
• The cutting edge must be 3 inches (7.62 cm) or less: This is measured along the actual sharp edge of the blade, not just the physical length of the metal.

Crucial Catch: “Lock knives” (where the blade locks open for safety) do not qualify as folding pocket knives under UK law, even if the blade is under 3 inches. Carrying one in public without a valid reason is illegal.

2. Knives You Can Carry ONLY with a “Good Reason”

If a knife has a blade longer than 3 inches, or if it has a locking mechanism (including most tactical knives, fixed blades, and many larger multi-tools), you can only carry it in public if you have a “good reason.”

Ultimately, a police officer or a court decides what counts as a valid excuse, but standard recognized examples include:

• Work: You are a chef taking your knives to a kitchen, or a carpet fitter, builder, or gardener who needs a utility knife for your trade.
• Religious Reasons: Such as the kirpan carried by orthodox Sikhs.
• National Costume: Such as the sgian-dubh worn with traditional Scottish Highland dress.
• Legitimate Outdoor Activities: You are actively traveling directly to or from a camping, fishing, or bushcraft activity where the knife is required.

What is NOT a good reason? Carrying a knife “just in case,” for general utility “just to be handy,” or for self-defense. In the UK, carrying any weapon for self-defense is strictly illegal. Furthermore, if you have a work knife, you must only transport it directly to and from work—stopping at a pub or shop on the way home with it in your pocket can get you arrested.

3. Knives That Are Completely Banned

Certain types of knives are completely illegal to own, bring into the UK, sell, possess at home, or carry anywhere. These include:

• Flick knives / Switchblades (knives that open automatically with a button or spring)
• Butterfly knives (Balisongs)
• Disguised knives (blades hidden in walking sticks, lipsticks, or belt buckles)
• Gravity knives
• Zombie-style knives and machetes (specifically blades over 8 inches with a sharp point and aggressive features like serrations, spikes, or multiple holes)

Summary of Legalities

The maximum penalty for an adult caught carrying a knife illegally in public is 4 years in prison and an unlimited fine.

Making a “penny stove” out of cola cans is a classic DIY project for ultralight backpackers. It is incredibly lightweight, surprisingly efficient, and runs on denatured alcohol (methylated spirits).

Here is a step-by-step guide to building a standard, pressurized penny stove.

🛠️ Tools and Materials Needed

Materials:

• 2 Aluminum cans (standard 330ml or 500ml cans, undamaged)
• 1 Copper coin ( UK 1p/2p coin)
• High-temperature aluminum foil tape (optional, but great for a tight seal)
• Denatured alcohol / Methylated spirits (for fuel)

Tools:

• A sharp utility knife or box cutter
• A thumbtack, pushpin, or a drill with a tiny bit (approx. 1mm)
• A thick book or wooden block (to use as a height gauge for cutting)
• Scissors
• Fine-grit sandpaper

📐 Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Prep the Cans

Thoroughly wash and dry both cans. Use your sandpaper to sand off the paint around the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) of both cans. Removing the paint prevents toxic fumes when the stove burns.

Step 2: Make the Burner Holes (Top Half)

Take Can A (this will be the top of your stove).

1. Turn it upside down so the concave bottom faces up.
2. Using your thumbtack or pushpin, poke 4 fuel-drainage holes inside the central, indented ring of the can bottom.
3. Next, poke 16 to 24 evenly spaced jet holes around the outer rim of the can. These are the jets where the flame will shoot out.

Step 3: Cut the Can Bottoms

You need to cut the bottom off both cans to create two shallow cups. To get a perfectly straight line:

1. Place your utility knife blade between the pages of a thick book so it stays flat and level at about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the table.
2. Hold the knife steady and rotate Can A against the blade until it scores and cleanly cuts the bottom off.
3. Repeat this process for Can B (the bottom half), but make it just a fraction taller—about 1.25 inches (3 cm).

Step 4: Create the Inner Wall (The Cup)

You need an inner wall inside the stove to create a fuel chamber.

1. Take the remaining middle cylinder scrap of aluminum from one of the cut cans.
2. Cut a strip that is about 1.3 inches (3.3 cm) wide.
3. Roll this strip into a circle that fits tightly around the inner raised ring of the bottom can (Can B).
4. Cut three small V-shaped notches into the bottom edge of this ring. This allows fuel to flow from the center to the outer jets.

Step 5: Assemble the Stove

This is the trickiest part, as the two can bottoms are the exact same diameter.

1. Take Can A (with the holes) and slightly crimp or pleat the edges inward using your fingers or pliers so it can slide inside Can B.
2. Place your inner wall ring inside Can B (notches facing down).
3. Carefully press Can A down into Can B. It should be a very tight, snug fit. Press them together until the inner wall is firmly sandwiched between the top and bottom.
4. (Optional) Wrap a single layer of high-temperature aluminum tape around the seam to ensure it is airtight.

🔥 How to Operate It Safely

⚠️ Safety First: Alcohol burns with an almost invisible blue flame in daylight. Always operate outdoors on a fireproof surface (like the brick in the photo).

1. Fill: Pour about 30ml of alcohol directly onto the top of the stove. It will drain through the center holes past the penny.
2. Cap: Place your penny directly over the center holes. This seals the chamber so it can pressurize.
3. Prime: Pour a tiny splash of alcohol into the indented rim around the penny, or into a shallow tray beneath the stove, and light it.
4. The Bloom: The burning priming fuel will heat up the stove. Within 30 to 60 seconds, the alcohol inside will boil, turn to vapor, and shoot out of the outer jets, lighting into a beautiful ring of flame. Once it “blooms,” you can place your pot on top.

Four years ago Lesley Dodson and I started what felt like a long, slightly silly, but really quite cool challenge.
We wanted to see what England really had to offer, what different town’s, cities and countrysides looked like.
To achieve this we decided to spend one night in every county.
We got a little carried away and squeezed in most of Scotland, and the NC500 into that as well, but as of today.
Every one of the 49 administrative counties in England have hosted Lesley and I.

From rooms in pubs so dirty and damaged it was hard to sleep, being the only guests in a 60 room hotel, so the owner shared the family evening meal with us, hippy teachers, a couple of golf courses, converted sheds and a room on the 9th floor in Covent Garden, its been an adventure. Assisted of course by being with my best friend for it all.

DofE Bronze Assessment weekend.

The Duke of Edinburgh (DofE) Bronze Assessment (often called the “qualifying expedition”) is the final, hands-on test of the Expedition section. It is designed to test the self sufficiency, teamwork, and navigation skills in a rural environment.

The Adventure Element

The most important thing to know is that it is not a military test or a race; the goal is for the team to safely complete a route they planned themselves while adhering to the official “DofE 20 Conditions.”

Here is exactly what a Bronze assessment looks like from start to finish:

1. The Core Structure

• Duration: 2 days and 1 night. The Adventure Element
• Activity Time: A minimum of 6 hours of planned activity per day.
• Journeying: At least 3 of those 6 hours must be spent actively traveling (usually walking, though some groups cycle or canoe). The remaining hours can be spent working on the “Team Goal” (e.g., geocaching, identifying wildlife, or filming a group diary).
• Environment: Normal, local rural countryside or familiar forest paths. The Adventure Element

2. Remote Supervision & The Assessor

Yjey will be assigned an accredited DofE Assessor (who, at the Bronze level, is sometimes also the team’s Supervisor).

The key word for the assessment is unaccompanied. The Assessor will not walk with them. Instead, they practice “remote supervision.” They will:

• Check the kit and navigation plans before you set off.
• Meet at designated checkpoints along the route to see how you are doing.
• Occasionally track the group from a distance or via a GPS tracker.
• Step in only if there is a safety or first-aid emergency.

3. What Happens During the 2 Days

Day 1: The Outward Journey & Camp Craft

• The Start: The Assessor will check that the team has all the required safety gear, correct clothing, and enough food. They may ask individuals questions about the route or first aid.
• The Walk: The team (usually 4 to 7 people) navigates the route using a map and compass. They must carry all your own kit, including tents, sleeping bags, stoves, and food.
• At the Campsite: Once you arrive at the designated campsite, The team must set up your tents and pitch camp without adult help.
• Cooking: They must use a cooking stove (like a Trangia) to prepare a substantial hot meal. This is a mandatory requirement to prove you can look after your nutritional needs.

Day 2: The Return Journey & Debrief

• Morning Routine: They wake up, cook a hot breakfast, completely pack up camp, and ensure they leave “no trace” (absolutely no litter).
• The Final Stretch: Navigate the second leg of the planned route to the final finish point.
• The Assessor Debrief: Once they arrive, the Assessor will sit down with the team. They will ask how it went, how you handled any navigation mistakes, and ask to share the findings of your Team Goal.

4. How Do You Pass (or Fail)?

Assessors want you to pass, and they expect minor mistakes, like getting slightly lost and having to relocate. They will successfully pass your assessment as long as they meet the core requirements:

After a successful debrief, the Assessor will sign off the assessment on the eDofE system, completing the Expedition section!

I recently worked on my first assessment, they above are the requirments.

I worked for Lupine Adventure Explaining it was my first time they where very supportive, i could not have asked for more.

The days where spent remote supervising, essentially meeting with the group, planning a check in point on an OS map, they then walk there, and i meet them at that check in to ensure there are no problems.
I had a great group of young ladies, around 14 yrs old, they where polite and pleasent to be around

The picture posted is one taken with no young people in, for safeguarding reasons, but i got to sit there for a warm saturday evening listening to the chit chat of enthusiastic people.