Prusik and more, The above are friction hitches, when under load they will tighten onto the red rope and act as a 3rd hand when self rescue, abseiling/rappelling down a crag. they are a backup to a belay device and should never be the only thing holding your weight (or anyone else’s).
Prusik
| Pro | Con |
| Super strong, reliable | Requires extra time and equipment to use |
| ideal for hauling a load | Harder to tie it properly |
| Slipping can occur without the appropriate amount of wraps |
Autoblock
| Pro | Con |
| Very fast to install and breakdown | Takes extra time and equipment to use |
| Simple visual inspection | Slipping can occur without the appropriate amount of wraps |
| Ideal for backing up a rappel | |
Klemheist
| Pro | Con |
| Very fast to install and breakdown | Takes extra time and equipment to use |
| Simple visual inspection | Slipping can occur without the appropriate amount of wraps |
| Ideal for backing up a rappel | |
Bachmann
| Pro | Con |
| Very fast to install and breakdown | Requires additional carabiner |
| Simple visual inspection | Slipping can occur without the appropriate amount of wraps |
| Ideal for backing up a rappel | Carabiner ideally round stock |
| Potentially better in wet or icy conditions. | |